Iri Ani The Witch's Blog

Blog EntryBlackballApr 4, '08 10:24 PM
for everyone

Its like this...


you can take the girl out of Blackball
but you can never take Blackball out of the girl

it is my soul...

When I last returned
we crossed the mountains/ the spine/  the backbone/
of the South Island -
climbing past the blue braided rivers rolling down to the East
to the Pacific...

Then through the small township of Arthurs Pass/ time
for a pit stop/ maybe lunch/ visit the wekas at the lookout
drive down the new viaduct -
then to the left is the Taramakau rolling down to the West
to the Tasman Sea...


Blackball, The Blackball Bridge, and the Grey River

The Grey River is seventy five miles long. The Maori name both for the river and for the pa at its mouth was Mawhera, but in 1846 Heaphy named it the Grey, after the new Governor, Sir George Grey; the town of Greymouth now stands on the site of the old pa. In the following year the explorer Thomas Brunner discovered coal on the banks of the river a few miles from its mouth, which later became the Brunner Mine.

Further along the river (about eighteen miles from Greymouth) there was the Blackball Bridge, which was opened by the then Prime Minister Richard (Dick) Seddon in 1903. The historic coalmining town of Blackball sits on a terrace above the West Coast's Grey River. Between the river and the town is Blackball Creek where George Cundy discovered gold in 1864.

When we lived in Blackball there was an old gold dredge on the creek and shingle tailings over which grew blackberry vines. My father would drive us down with buckets which we would fill with blackberries for jam.

From The Listener Archive: February 19-25 2005 Vol 197 No 3380

"Christchurch poet Jeffrey Paparoa Holman spent his formative years on the other side of the Alps in rough-and-tough Blackball, then left as a teenager with hardly a look back. Decades later he revisits his old stamping ground in The late great Blackball Bridge Sonnets, which is his second book of verse. Within its pages he becomes a kind of soapbox orator, expressing an almost evangelical enthusiasm for the West Coast – its seasons, its myths and its features – above all, the now demolished Blackball Bridge over the Grey River... memories of schooldays in the 50s and early 60s... [The] poems are vivid with imagery – a possum up a telegraph pole caught in a spotlight and brought down with a rifle shot; “[the river] torrent … in high spring flood, bearing away/in the darkness cattle, willows, the nests of birds” – and offer witness to place, kinship and belonging. This is poetry as local history and vice-versa: “in the house of my body”, Holman writes, “I carry that river."


The town of Blackball first began around 1865 as a goldmining settlement, (in fact the one hundredth anniversary of the town was celebrated while we were living there), however there was better gold to be found a few miles upriver at Moonlight. The opening of the coalmine in 1893 saw the town grow and at it's peak in 1928 there were 1200 people living there.

Blackball is most famous however for it's illegal strike in 1908, (illegal because the Liberal Party led by "King Dick" Seddon had outlawed strikes), which became the subject matter for Eric Beardsley's novel Blackball 08, which, as you all know, I have just reviewed. The strike was in support of a half hour lunch break (crib time) which every other miner in the country was getting. Ironically during the court case the judge adjourned the court for an hour and a half lunch break.

The success of this collective action fired up the workers of New Zealand and the Red Feds were formed which in time developed into the Federation of Labour and the New Zealand Labour Party, and as I mentioned in the book review the Communist Party moved it's headquarters from Wellington (the capital city of NZ) down to Blackball.


In the nineteen sixties when my family lived  at Blackball there was a population of about four hundred people. Approximately eighty children attended the school and they were divided between four teachers. I think my first teacher was the only woman in the town who was employed in paid work on her own account. This first teacher had been teaching this primer (new entrants) class for so many years that she had taught most of the kids' parents to read and write.

Other women involved in "earning a crust" were married women working alongside their husbands in the local shops and pubs. Of course the Blackball and Roa coalmines were the main employers and women were not coalminers. Many of the women were involved in volunteer work and committees.

I was just turning five and ready to start school when we first moved to Blackball from Taumaranui in the North Island. My father had been applying for jobs that were advertised in the Police Gazette but missing out on them for one reason or another; after a while he just applied for any job that came up which was how he became the sole charge police officer in Blackball. His application was probably the only one.

It was a long journey in our old Ford V8, my little sister got carsick (she never travelled well),  and then we copped a stormy crossing over the Cook Strait on the inter-island ferry and my baby brother who had just turned one, was sick over his flash travelling outfit. In my memory we drove through sheets of rain all the way down the West side of the South Island and encountered frequent stoppages for road works which was at least a useful chance for one or both of our parents to haul us children out of the car for toilet breaks behind the ever present bush. One thing about the West Coast, there is never a shortage of handy trees.

Finally we arrived in Blackball. We had to stay at a local hotel while our house was still being cleaned and redecorated and the rats and mice eradicated. The house had been empty for about six months because the Blackball Police Station had been supposedly permanently closed, but the people of Blackball had been horrified at not having a policeman in their town and had protested so vociferously that the station was reopened.



55 CommentsChronological   Reverse   Threaded
jacquiz wrote on Apr 4
I had a Neice who lived in Blackball..I have never travelled across to the West Coast iri..but is something I would love to do one time..look at that glorious old rambling rose growing over that shed..Blackball would have to be one of my destinations..lol maybe the Blackball Pub..I bet that is an interesting place
redrantingginger wrote on Apr 4
It sounds like Blackball would be an interesting place.

There are many small towns that are similar in the US as well.
dnoakes wrote on Apr 4, edited on Apr 4
Sounds like a very interesting frontier lifestyle, with quite a colorful history. You are gifted with a fine memory.

The picture of the main street of Blackball reminds me of places I've driven through here on the North American Pacific coast: a little town, with green trees and damp fogs, similar to what you'd come across in Oregon or anywhere up and over the border in British Columbia, except there are no coal deposits for anyone to have mined.
ifiik wrote on Apr 4, edited on Apr 4
Its a beautiful area around Blackball, I was through there in 1975, just before moving to Australia.
wrenomatic wrote on Apr 4
Are you in the school picture, Iri?
vin495 wrote on Apr 4
Are you in the school picture, Iri?
That was my question as well ;)
labraro wrote on Apr 5
how did the town get its name? sounds like a great place to raise children.
rizzo46nz wrote on Apr 5
Blackball is a place I've never been to. Will have to make a point of it next time I head west. Is that you in the middle of the second row to the right (as you look at the photo) of the tall girl?
What a lovely blog Iri.
rizzo46nz wrote on Apr 5
that picture of the main street of Blackball reminds me of stopping in Reefton on our way to Wesport. In those days if we didn't have our grandfather's Morris Minor, then we were on the the back of Dad's work truck, like the Beverly Hillbillies. It was a flatbed Bedford. He would put a canopy on the deck with some old car seats and a piece of 4' x 2' across the end of it to keep us in. We thought it was a wonderful way to travel! We even had the budgie cage hanging in the back with us. We would wave to people in the tour buses coming up behind us, going over the Lewis Pass.
Thanks for the memories, Iri
drafair wrote on Apr 5
What a beautiful house, and what an exiting adventure for a five year old. Are we going to hear some of those poems and myths? I just love stories like this. Dave.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5, edited on Apr 5
Are you in the school picture, Iri?
Wren and Vin, yes I am in the school photo...
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
Is that you in the middle of the second row to the right (as you look at the photo) of the tall girl?
nope... lol, have another go
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
jacquiz said
look at that glorious old rambling rose growing over that shed..Blackball would have to be one of my destinations..lol maybe the Blackball Pub..I bet that is an interesting place
That old "shed" is the jail in our backyard, but it wasn't decorated with a rose while we lived there. The house went into private ownership and a later owner must have planted the lovely rose. Inside the jail was a central passage with a cell on each side, they were very dark with small high barred windows, however they were never used in our time, (there wasn't any crime), my dad kept the lawnmower, garden tools and chicken feed in there.

There are two pubs even Jacqui, the "Club Hotel" and the "Formerly The Blackball Hilton", which you may remember I did a wee blog about back on 360.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
labraro said
how did the town get its name? sounds like a great place to raise children.
Ron, I have no idea, I have always assumed the name relates to the coal, or perhaps is named after somewhere in the UK as lots of places in NZ are, and it was a wonderful place for children when I lived there, we had so much freedom to explore.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
drafair said
Are we going to hear some of those poems and myths? I just love stories like this. Dave.
At some point it is very likely David lol.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5, edited on Apr 5
dnoakes said
The picture of the main street of Blackball reminds me of places I've driven through here on the North American Pacific coast: a little town, with green trees and damp fogs, similar to what you'd come across in Oregon or anywhere up and over the border in British Columbia,
I am not sure that it looks particularly American in real life, but I must admit when I was placing the photos in this blog I did sort of think too, that there was some resemblance to small American style towns that I have seen on tv lol. The buildings are quite old (mostly) and very colonial New Zealand in style. When the town of Blackball was established it was very much a frontier town, I don't think it has ever entirely lost that character.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
we were on the the back of Dad's work truck, like the Beverly Hillbillies. It was a flatbed Bedford. He would put a canopy on the deck with some old car seats and a piece of 4' x 2' across the end of it to keep us in. We thought it was a wonderful way to travel! We even had the budgie cage hanging in the back with us.
Oh man, you sound like hillbillies too hehehehe, what a neat story.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
It sounds like Blackball would be an interesting place.
Thank you Meg. It was a great place to live.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
ifiik said
Its a beautiful area around Blackball, I was through there in 1975, just before moving to Australia.
And still you left??? hehehe. I am biased of course but I think the West Coast of the South Island is the most beautiful place there is.
ducktastic wrote on Apr 5
loved it to bits enjoyed every line and as for the pictures.
it's nice to look back sometimes , i'd never heard of Blackball
but tell me more about the gold
stature wrote on Apr 5
I just thought South Island the most beautiful place i had ever been, but the ten day tour my daughter took me on didn't take me to Blackball and yet the name Arthur's Pass rings a bell. This blog is so rich, Iri, sorry if i am late and i haven't yet read the review - or properly woken up, just had to have a word with Vivien and saw you. Will be back, It reads just like my childhood travel-sickness too. Oh that sounds awful, let me have my morning cuppa hug C
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
but tell me more about the gold
There still be gold in them hills (and rivers)!
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
stature said
I just thought South Island the most beautiful place i had ever been
Thank you Chrissie.
ducktastic wrote on Apr 5
taxi !
dnoakes wrote on Apr 5, edited on Apr 5
When the town of Blackball was established it was very much a frontier town, I don't think it has ever entirely lost that character.
I hope it never does. A place that has such poetry and history should be preserved from shopping malls and the like.
Comment deleted at the request of the author.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
lol. With still only a population of about four hundred people it would be hard for a mall to sustain a market.
vin495 wrote on Apr 5


ok that's my guess lol

I only remember visiting Blackball once back in '85, my memory is pretty vague but I do recall thinking that the bush was stunning. We were down to do the Heaphy track and spent most of our time in the Karamea area, a very beautiful part of the West Coast.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 5
Very clever hehehe. Sorry but no that little girl was called Diane.

I haven't been down the Heaphy Track but my brother and his wife and my sister have and they brought back some stunning photo's. A friend of mine was born in Karamea, now living here in Christchurch, when we were over on the coast last time I got some Karamea Beach photos, actually i have a lot of Coast photos, i should make up some albums.

vin495 wrote on Apr 5
would love to see your pictures ;)
luckebabe wrote on Apr 5
Thanks for sharing you childhood with us. Great memories!
rizzo46nz wrote on Apr 5
ok my next guess is the darkhaired girl behind the blonde in the front row
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 6
nope, incidentally they are both Karen's. Why do you think I have dark hair?
ifiik wrote on Apr 6
My guess is the little blonde girl in the front row, wearing jandals......
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 6
I am not wearing jandals...
ifiik wrote on Apr 6
ok....second row ....third from the laft as I look at the picture..............
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 6
hehehehe... nope.
wrenomatic wrote on Apr 6
Second row from the top, third from the left.........??
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 6
*looks at Wren* thats a boy
rizzo46nz wrote on Apr 7
Ok I have it now....2nd from the left on the second row!
I remember seeing a pic of you as a teen on a boat. Long blondie/brown hair if I recall
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 7
Rizzy you are too clever for words today! Yes that is the correct answer, 2nd from the left on the second row just as she says folks.

RIZZY WINS!

Not the cutest photo ever taken of me lol.
rizzo46nz wrote on Apr 7
that's why it took so long. I was trying to compare eyes and mouth to the pic you have in your icon.
rizzo46nz wrote on Apr 7
do you ever see any of those kids you went to school with?
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 7, edited on Apr 7
Not for years now... After all the mines had finally closed back in the late sixties/early seventies some of the families moved over to Christchurch. I saw one of the girls at a party one time in the seventies and one of the boys was actually at our high school Rizz.

Now that the world seems to want coal and it has become economic again, they are looking at re-opening mines over there now.

http://www.crownminerals.govt.nz/cms/news/2007/golden-fern-awarded-blackball-permit?

7 March 2007

Golden Fern Resources Ltd, the New Zealand gold exploration subsidiary of Canadian-based CanAlaska Ventures Ltd, has been awarded a gold and silver exploration permit north of Greymouth on the West Coast of the South Island.

The 4775 hectare EP 40 809 is on the southeast side of the Paparoa Range, between the town of Blackball and the southern end of the Pike River coal mining permit.

The area is at the centre of the CanAlaska Croesus Prospecting Permit 39 279 covering a much larger 235 square km area. The Croesus Knob near the head of the Blackwater Creek and Roaring Meg Creek is within the new exploration permit.

Golden Fern says on its website that there has been previous hardrock gold mined in the region from mines in quartz veins at Croesus Knob (2600 oz), and a much smaller amount from Roaring Meg Creek.

Alluvial placer gold has been mined in Blackball Creek (103,000 oz) and Moonlight Creek (19,000 oz), which drain to the southeast from the hardrock mines.

The geology of the area mainly comprises Ordovician Greenland Group metasediments, which host the Reefton goldfield. There is also a stock of early Cretaceous Rahu Suite granite in the headwaters of Moonlight Creek.

Golden Fern says the Croesus area has potential to host stockwork gold deposits. Extensive alluvial gold deposits in local catchments indicate a centre of gold mineralisation within the project area.

“Previous exploration has focussed on the Greenland Group metasediments as the source of alluvial gold, but no consideration has been given to the intrusives, which are likely to be the source of the mineralising fluids,” Golden Fern says.

The work programme for the new EP 40809 requires Golden Fern to complete within two years geological and structural mapping, geochemical sampling and the defining of areas for drilling or detailed sampling. Within three years a geophysical survey and delineation of further drill targets are to be completed.

rizzo46nz wrote on Apr 7
I can't imagine people going back to coal mining. I mean down the mines. I'm sure there have been wonderful advances since those ones were closed. One hopes anyway.

Who was the boy who went to our high school?
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 7
third row, second from the left, his name was Gavin.
frncshammer wrote on Apr 7, edited on Apr 7
boy, that was very interesting. It must have been fun growing up in such a small town. Was that you third from the right first row...lol oops I see it was the second from the left on the second row...and you were wearing shoes too
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 7
plastic sandals actually lol
mestarr wrote on Apr 7
sound like the un-used jail in my village--a cinderblock building 8x12' used for toolshed by town marshall. still there, in a privet bush.
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 7
Why can't Americans speak English lol, what on earth is cinderblock? The only cinders I know of are the kind poor Cinderella had to sit in.

Other than that Mestarr it does indeed sound similar. Our jail was built of weatherboard.
rizzo46nz wrote on Apr 8
I had to go check it out, Iri. I hear that from time to time too and wonder what it is. So our garage is made from cinderblock. The concrete blocks they used to make at Winstones. Don't ask me where the cinder part comes in, because whenever I hear it, I immediately think of things in/around/to do with, fires.

My younger sister was at high school with a Gavin...wonder if it was him
jonlewy wrote on Apr 8
What a pretty flower you have in your hair.hehe
mestarr wrote on Apr 8
oh, thats a little hard to decribe. it is a building block about 35-40 cm long x 15-20 cm wide and high. It is grey and a bit pebbly. Cinder, slag, is one component, I guess held together with Portland or some other lime cement product. they are generally just plain, but some have various shapes that you maybe call breezblock, or at least i think Africa and India call it that.
shortydeb wrote on Apr 17
Well I finally took time to read this blog and I found it very interesting. I enjoyed reading it Iri.Thanks for sharing with us. Its so cool to learn about others and where they come from. Especially when we are from Different countries. yea,we have cinderblock here too. It is just a type of cement block is all.It is used in basements and foundations in houses here,and even some buildings..
irianithewitchnz wrote on Apr 18
Nice to have you here Debs.
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